“The White Lotus”-Inspired Guide to Sicily

Sicily has shot up the bucket lists of many travelers, thanks in part to its star turn in season 2 of the HBO® Original series “The White Lotus.” Fans looking to savor Sicily’s drama will find inspiration in our guide of where to stay and what to do in Taormina, Palermo, and beyond.

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Exterior of San Domenico Palace, a boxy pink building built up to the edge of a hill, with forest falling away below and a mountain behind.

Italy promises all that we love about a European vacation: rich history, delectable cuisine, and picturesque landscapes and town squares around every corner. While places like Rome, the Amalfi Coast, and Venice have long dominated our collective imagination of la dolce vita, Sicily has only recently become more popular. Set-jetters fell in love with the island’s rugged, breathtaking beauty on season 2 of HBO’s “The White Lotus,” where it provided a powerful backdrop to the show’s storytelling. 

As we followed Tanya, Daphne, and Albie through the ups and downs of their trip to Sicily, we couldn’t take our eyes off Taormina’s alluring architecture, verdant cliffs, and Mediterranean beaches. There’s much more to Sicily than what we saw on the show: Palermo’s eye-catching Baroque city center, the wild vineyards on the slopes of Mount Etna, the otherworldly coastline of Agrigento, plus family-owned restaurants, bakeries, and gelato shops serving up flavors you may not otherwise get to sample elsewhere.

In addition, Sicily is ready to pamper you at luxurious hotels, notably San Domenico Palace, Taormina, a Four Seasons Hotel, where much of the drama on “The White Lotus” unfolded. Platinum Card® Members who book this Fine Hotels + Resorts property through American Express Travel® enjoy an exclusive suite of benefits including daily breakfast for two, guaranteed 4pm check-out, and a $100 credit1 to use towards eligible charges, such as food and beverage, spa, or other on-property charges.

Let our guide to Sicily inspire your next trip to Italy. And remember: You can freely explore with no foreign transaction fees2 on purchases made abroad with your Platinum Card.

Calendar

Best Time to Visit

Avoid the peak summer heat and crowds; instead, time your visit to the late spring (April – June) or early fall (September – October), when the weather’s generally pleasant for sightseeing and outdoor activities. If you love the beach, September is better than May because the water has warmed up over the summer months.

Airplane

Getting There

Fly to Palermo and enjoy savings on premium seats with the International Airline Program.* Your Platinum Card can get you access to lower air fares on bookings with participating airlines on international first, business, and premium economy seats. Lower fares are available to Platinum Card Members and up to seven of their companions when traveling on the same itinerary. Plus, Platinum Card Members earn 5X Membership Rewards® points* on up to $500,000 of airfare purchases per calendar year when you book through American Express Travel.

Get a Taste of “The White Lotus” in Taormina

First settled by the Greeks in 735 BCE, the area around Taormina has been a coveted perch for many other civilizations. The Romans, Arabs, and Spanish all planted their flags and left behind landmarks and cultural influences in this sultry seaside enclave on the eastern shores of Sicily. One of the latest waves of arrivals was the cast and crew of “The White Lotus” — and you can live out your set-jetting fantasies by hitting up the featured sights in and around Taormina, beginning with Castello degli Schiavi, an opulent Baroque castle. 

Follow in the footsteps of the characters by strolling through the atmospheric town of Noto, about 1.5 hours south of Taormina, full of historic buildings and secret alleyways. Then head about 2.5 hours north of Taormina to pretty Cefalù, whose beach was used for the opening scene of season 2. The town is also known for cliffs, temples, including one dedicated to the goddess Diana, and Duomo di Cefalù, a 12th-century cathedral with Byzantine mosaics. 

Beyond what is showcased in "The White Lotus," you’ll want to peruse the myriad shops, cafes, and restaurants in Taormina, especially around Palazzo Corvaja and Corso Umberto I, where Lucia hits the shops. Browse cameos, coral and pearls, and other fine jewelry at family-run Stroscio Gioelli and eat your way through Vicolo Stretto, Liola Osteria, and Nunziatina restaurants. For lunch with a view, catch a cable car ride to Lido La Pigna, a restaurant with a terrace overlooking striped beach umbrellas and the undulating waves. The ancient Greek theater of Taormina still hosts concerts and delivers sweeping panoramas; on a clear day, you can spot the summit of Mount Etna. Albie brings his father and grandfather here, along with Portia. And if you’re up for a day trip, follow the path that Ethan and Daphne took to Isola Bella, an island with its own collection of sweet pebbly beaches, historic relics, and lively restaurants.

Fine Hotels + Resorts

San Domenico Palace, Taormina, a Four Seasons Hotel

A former 14th-century convent towering over the Ionian Sea, San Domenico Palace is as sumptuous in real life as it looked on the show. An art concierge is even on hand to lead a tour of the extensive collection of frescoes, sculptures, and paintings. Swim in the cliff-top infinity pool, wander the Italian gardens, and enjoy complimentary daily breakfast for two on the terrace where viewers saw "The White Lotus" guests plot their sightseeing while soaking up views of Mount Etna, Taormina Bay, and the Ancient Theatre. Benefits for Platinum Card Members also include a $100 credit to use towards eligible charges, guaranteed 4pm check-out, and a room upgrade, upon arrival, when available3; rooms are modern and flooded with natural light.

Be Charmed by Catania

Aerial view of Catania harbor. Boats line the marina in front of brightly colored pastel buildings, most with terracotta roofs.
In the early evening, the Basilica Cattedrale di Sant’Agata, a grand white building with several domes, is tinged pink.
In the evening, a side street is thronged with diners eating at sidewalk tables. Plants and twinkle lights hang from balconies above.

About an hour south of Taormina in eastern Sicily, Catania is a port city with the Baroque architecture you’ll find all over the island. Catania's UNESCO-listed old town is full of picture-perfect attractions starting in the Piazza del Duomo, the main square. From there you can walk to pretty much everything else: the Rococo Palazzo Biscari, the very lush Giardino Bellini, and the exciting fish market. 

Gourmands will love Catania’s robust food scene, including street vendors plying tasty delicacies like Cipolline Catanesi, a puff pastry stuffed with tomato and onion. Tuck into more savory and sweet treats, including arancini (rice balls), at Bar Pasticceria Arabica; hearty sandwiches and steaks at Ammucca Ammucca, a family-run butcher shop and casual restaurant; and pizza at Milazzo. 

Catania tends to be more affordable and family-friendly than Taormina, which caters more to couples with its high-end shops, restaurants, and hotels. Catania is also an easy jumping-off point for exploring the Mount Etna region. Many tours strike out from here and may focus on hiking, 4x4 excursions, or visits to some of Sicily’s renowned wineries, such as Planeta.

Explore available tours of Catania at GetYourGuide.

Explore all Fine Hotels + Resorts and The Hotel Collection properties in Sicily

Go for Baroque in Palermo

View over the terracotta roofs and cathedral domes of Palermo, with craggy hills beyond.

As the Sicilian capital, Palermo bustles with roughly a million inhabitants and countless intriguing things to do. Nearly every Mediterranean civilization has made its mark on this dynamic city, including the Phoenicians, the Greeks, the Arabs, and the French. And while you can see their influence in the layers of architectural heritage, the defining style is most certainly Baroque. The Church of the Gesù and the Palazzo Valguarnera-Gangi are two outstanding examples.

Beyond admiring the architecture, catch an opera production at Teatro Massimo, one of the largest opera houses in Italy, and shop at Tre Erre Ceramiche, where you can pick up a brightly decorated Moorish head vase, which you’ll recognize from “The White Lotus.” When it’s gelato o’clock, head to Dolce Capo for flavors like pomegranate and pistachio; make it a meal by ordering your gelato stuffed in a brioche bun, a Sicilian specialty.  

Sample street food from the countless stalls of the Vucciria market and cap off your visit with inventive drinks at Beta Cocktails Laboratory.  

Get a deeper appreciation of local culinary traditions by joining a food tour or cooking class with GetYourGuide.

Veer Off the Beaten Path to Sciacca

A beach on a sunny day. Yellow flowers grow densely in the foreground and cliffs stretch out for several hundred feet over blue-green water.
A sunny street near the waterfront. The buildings are built of pastel orange stone, and richly painted vases punctuate the roadside wall.
View up a stairway cutting steeply back and forth between two buildings. Blue and white majolica tiles line the tops of the handrails.
View from the water towards Sciacca, which winds up a steep hillside and is densely packed with narrow two-and-three story buildings.

In Sicily’s southwest, the province of Agrigento is home to the Valley of the Temples, a magnificent ancient Greek archeological site recognized by UNESCO. Base yourself in the nearby Sciacca, a small fishing village with an outsized cachet, though it still only receives a fraction of the visitors who head to Taormina and Palermo. Not far from North Africa, Sciacca has over a thousand years of history and first came on the tourist radar for its thermal baths, mostly located at the foot of Monte San Calogero. If you catch a boat trip along the coast, you can see various caves bubbling with thermal energy – and hop off at secluded beaches. 

History buffs walking through the compact city center will marvel at Sciacca’s heritage, influenced by both the Arabs and Normans; keep an eye out for staircases decorated with handcrafted majolica (ceramic tiles). Two medieval landmarks standing strong are the fortress Castello Luna and the local cathedral full of perfectly preserved frescoes. Another distinctive local attraction is the small Museum of Coral.

Sicily Tips from an American Express Travel Consultant

We tapped one of our top travel consultants for advice on what to know before visiting Sicily.

 

Cultural Mindfulness

Aperitivo is a cultural ritual, a moment in the late afternoon or early evening when locals gather for a pre-dinner drink and snacks. While restaurants usually open for dinner between 6-7pm, most locals consider dinner time to be 8-9 pm.

Sicilians tend to be outgoing and will likely appreciate if you try to speak basic Italian phrases, so consider brushing up beforehand. Many Sicilians also speak their local dialects, but fluency in English is very limited. Also keep in mind that street signs and information in museums and churches may only be in Italian.

The Mafia is a sensitive topic in Sicily and still a source of violence; it’s not something to inquire or joke about as you never know who you might be speaking with and if they’ve been victims of organized crime.

 

Money Matters

At restaurants, expect your bill to include a “coperto,” a small, fixed fee per person that covers the settings, bread and olive oil.

Tipping in Sicily may be appreciated but it is not common practice.

Debit and credit cards are widely accepted in Sicily. Still, you should always have local currency for small purchases.

 

Getting Around

Driving in Sicily is safe and fairly easy; you drive on the right side as in the US. Roads are narrow and parking can be limited, so it’s wise to rent a small vehicle like a Fiat Panda or Fiat 500. Also do your advance research as specific documents are needed to rent a car.

Eastern Sicily draws the most tourists, given its famous archaeological sites and, of course, Mount Etna. The west side is more about nature experiences and getting off the beaten path. Along with Sciacca, Trapani stands out; it’s a beautiful town made for romantic getaways. From Trapani, you can take a cable car ride to the medieval village of Erice, perched on a rocky cliff that delivers amazing views.

— Jamie C.

Tune in to the new season of the HBO Original series “The White Lotus,” which premieres February 16, 2025, at 9pm ET on Max.
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